Since I'm playing fast and loose with this blog these days, and making no promises about when things will get published, what was formerly known as "Mondays in the Kitchen" will now be called simply, "In the Kitchen." That way, it will be less confusing when I post recipes on Wednesdays, right?
 |
This is how I remember tom kha gai looking.
Also, imagine the sound of angels singing. |
Now that we've got the format change out of the way, let me tell you about this soup. I first had Tom Kha Gai in San Francisco when I was seventeen, right after I graduated from high school. It was my first exposure to Thai food of any kind, and we've had a wild love affair ever since. That said, good Thai food is hard to find, and having my first experience with this AMAZING genre of cuisine in one of the foodie capitals of the world may not have been all that fair to my gastronomical sensibilities. It's a lot to live up to, ya know?
I have rarely attempted Thai food in my own kitchen. The first reason is because it's spicy, and one child of mine (guess which one...) is profoundly adverse to any heat whatsoever in his food. This is the one accommodation I make in my kitchen for children - I get it. Not everybody can take the heat. He may grow into or out of it. For the time being, we run mild here at home.
The second reason is that I am loathe to make mediocre food, especially from a cuisine with which I am not terribly familiar. Lack of authenticity also worries me. I am insecure when it comes to cooking food other people do well, without a proper lesson.
I still have not had a proper lesson, but I do have Cook's Illustrated "The Best International Recipe" Cookbook, and it has not let me down. It has wonderful descriptions of global cuisines, and adaptations for the American chef, who might not have access to ingredients like kaffir lime leaves and galangal. You should be able to find these ingredients in most places - in any well-stocked grocery store, or a basic Asian foods store. This recipe comes together so easily and quickly (under 30 minutes) that it has been one I sometimes throw together on the odd occasion my husband and I are dining alone. It is delicious, and simple, and tastes as good as I remember from my first time. Do try it. Baby, it's cold outside, and this will warm you right up, and still leave time for wrapping those last minute gifts.
Thai-Style Chicken Soup (Tom Kha Gai)
adapted from Cook's Illustrated: The Best International Recipe
 |
| Cast of characters. Pretty basic. |
1 tsp vegetable oil
3 stalks lemon grass, bottom 5 inches only, tough outer layer removed, trimmed and sliced thin (do not use dried)
3 large shallots, chopped coarse
8 sprigs fresh cilantro, chopped coarse
3 TBS fish sauce
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 (14-oz) cans coconut milk
1 TBS sugar
1/2 pound white mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, halved lengthwise and sliced on the bias, 1/8 in thick
3 TBS juice from 2 limes
2 teaspoons Thai red curry paste (or more, for a spicier soup)
GARNISH: (do not omit)
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves
2 fresh Thai, serrano, or jalapeno chiles, seeds and ribs removed, sliced thin
2 scallions, sliced thin on the bias
1 lime, cut into wedges
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until just shimmering. Add the lemon grass, shallots, chopped cilantro sprigs, and 1 TBS of the fish sauce. Cook, stirring frequently, until just softened but not browned - 2 to 5 minutes.
Stir in the chicken broth and 1 can of the coconut milk and bring to a simmer over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until flavors have blended - about 10 minutes. Pour the broth through a fine-mesh strainer, discarding the solids left in the strainer. (At this point, the soup can be refrigerated for up to 1 day).
Return strained soup to a clean saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Stir in the remaining can of coconut milk and the sugar and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium, add the mushrooms and cook until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chicken and cook, stirring constantly, until no longer pink, 1 to 3 minutes. Remove soup from the heat.
Whisk together the lime juice, curry paste, and remaining 2 TBS fish sauce, then stir into the soup. Ladle soup into individual bowls and garnish with cilantro leaves, chiles, and scallions. Serve with the lime wedges.